Photography Nuts & Bolts

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Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Big Kev » 21 Jun 2012, 16:24

I dusted off the studio lighting the other day. I thought it about time I started using it again and there was a model to hand. This is Oliver Hylands, he's an England National League Basketball player.
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Stanley » 26 Jun 2012, 14:13

I don't think we have a topic devoted to the mechanics of snapping so I thought I'd use your topic as a vehicle Kev instead of starting another one. I have a question....
It pains me to admit it but the Nikkor 20mm manual lens is nowhere near as good on the D200 as it is on the Nikkormats. Working on the principle that there are no pockets in a shroud, what would you recommend for a modern lens for the D200. I'm not really interested in zoom lens as I can't hold the camera as steady as I used to so prefer wider angles. I think a 24mm would suit me fine but I will take any advice going!
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Big Kev » 26 Jun 2012, 21:09

There are a few about. Not sure on your views on using non Nikkor lenses but http://www.ebay.co.uk/ctg/Sigma-EX-DC-H ... ers_Lenses would give you the equivalent of a 45mm lens with an F1.4 aperture...

Sorry, I can't recommend anything as I don't use Nikon. All my kit is Olympus. Have a look on ebay or Amazon and see what's about.
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Stanley » 27 Jun 2012, 04:28

Thanks for that Kev. I have a 24mm 2.8 Nikkor that would do the same thing and I think I'll try that and see if it is sharper. Funny isn't it, the 20mmm is pin sharp on the Nikkormat but not on the D200. Of course, it may be me........
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Stanley » 27 Jun 2012, 07:48

I popped the 24mm lens on, remembered to adjust the shooting menu to it's focal length and aperture and shot a few pics as I had my motning walk. Better results than the 20mm, still not pin sharp but that's me not being as steady as I was. It'll do until I get a yearning for an auto lens made for the camera!
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Stanley » 01 Jul 2012, 04:50

Kev, I cracked yesterday, I did a bit of research, went on Amazon and ordered 1 "Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G ED II Lens Black" Nikon; Electronics; £110.00. In stock.
Not the most modern lens but described as 'as new' and covers 24mm to 85mm in old film camera terms. Not a fortune and it will be a nice interesting experiment with fully auto snapping.
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Big Kev » 02 Jul 2012, 18:19

Stanley wrote:Kev, I cracked yesterday, I did a bit of research, went on Amazon and ordered 1 "Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G ED II Lens Black" Nikon; Electronics; £110.00. In stock.
Not the most modern lens but described as 'as new' and covers 24mm to 85mm in old film camera terms. Not a fortune and it will be a nice interesting experiment with fully auto snapping.
24mm to 85mm is a very useful range. You'll be surprised how quickly you get used to autofocus. I have an old 135mm f2.8 manual focus lens I use on the Olympus, it gives very good results but you can't beat the two lenses that were packaged with the camera.
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Stanley » 03 Jul 2012, 04:11

I'm hoping that's the case Kev. There's more to lens design than meets the eye and I have to admit that I've been disappointed with the lack of sharpness with both the old Nikkors on the D200. The 24mm is a shade better but still not the quality I got on the F bodies with film. I had no problems with the autofocus on the Coolpix 8400 and so will be OK with the new one. Actually, if I tell the truth, a big advantage these days, cataracts don't improve things!
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Big Kev » 03 Jul 2012, 07:02

I seem to remember reading that you have the camera set at iso400. The way digital cameras process images is, obviously, a lot different to film. Whereas the higher iso settings, using film, would produce a "grainier" image (negligible in most cases) these higher settings on a DSLR will produce digital "noise". This will, in effect, degrade your image. Try the 20mm Nikkor again but with iso100 or 200 settings and a wider aperture. A side by side comparison on a hi res monitor will soon show any differences.
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Stanley » 03 Jul 2012, 07:17

Well done Kev, good memory! I shall take your advice and report....
Just had a look, I must have taken notice when you advised me before, it's set at ISO100.
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Tizer » 03 Jul 2012, 10:11

Following on from what Kev said about ISO settings, some `arty' digital photographers even deliberately use high ISO settings to get strange effects - we would call it noise but they take advantage of it. I always keep the setting on ISO 100 unless I have no choice due to low light but must have a pic. Comes in handy for me because much of my photography is what you might call archival - pictures of old buildings, small objects (collectibles such as mineral specimens), rock outcrops (geology interest) and so on.

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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Big Kev » 03 Jul 2012, 10:29

A bit of grain can add loads to an image. I tend to stick to a RAW image at the lowest iso setting I can get away with. I then have more control over the amount of effects on the final image.

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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Stanley » 04 Jul 2012, 06:38

I well remember the interminable discussions on grain size in the days of relatively slow film. My mentors taught me to vary exposure and development times with Tri-X and I got quite respectable results. There was also the fact that some of the best action photos I have ever seen by the great photo-journalists were blurred, grainy and totally brilliant! As for the way the D200 handles light, I don't fully understand it but it seems to have a pretty good idea of what it is doing! I look forward to the arrival of the CPU lens and will report. I shall have the full power of the computer in the camera looking after my inadequate skills. (Hopefully....)
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Big Kev » 04 Jul 2012, 07:48

As this thread has taken a more generalised direction; do you think it would benefit being renamed to, something like, "Photography Nuts & Bolts"? If any of the site admins agree please feel free to change it.
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Re: Studio Portraits

Post by Tizer » 04 Jul 2012, 08:54

Sounds a good idea to me.

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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by PanBiker » 04 Jul 2012, 08:56

I have changed the topic title Kev. It will appear in the forum under the new name but existing posts will have the old reference. New posts should have the new reference.

And they do! :thumbsup3:
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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Tizer » 04 Jul 2012, 09:31

Very clever Ian! :thankyou:

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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Big Kev » 04 Jul 2012, 12:21

Nice one, Ian. Thank you. I don't claim to be a photography expert but, any questions or ideas anyone wants to bounce around I'm more than happy to try and help.

I use an Olympus E520 DSLR and Adobe Photoshop CS4. I have a small, portable studio, currently set up in the loft room, which has produced some nice results (see pic at the top of this thread). I enjoy photography immensely and like to promote the hobby as much as possible.

At the end of August I will be wandering down to the Earby Camera Club to see what is on offer. I learnt a lot of techniques and useful snippets, during the 90's at a camera club down south. That was in the days of film and digital photography was in its infancy. Buying a DSLR has been a real eye opener.

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Ortoned Boats by Olympus_Kev, on Flickr

I've posted this pic just to see if anyone asks, or knows, what "Ortoned" means...
Last edited by Big Kev on 04 Jul 2012, 21:44, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Tizer » 04 Jul 2012, 18:53

Kev's photos are great and I'd recommend everyone to have a look at them - click on the photo above to get to the Flickr site then view his images. Is `ortoned' a photographic or a maritime word?

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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Big Kev » 04 Jul 2012, 19:28

Tizer wrote:Kev's photos are great and I'd recommend everyone to have a look at them - click on the photo above to get to the Flickr site then view his images. Is `ortoned' a photographic or a maritime word?

Thanks for the comment, Tiz.

Photographic. It's a technique developed by a photographer named Michael Orton.
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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Stanley » 05 Jul 2012, 05:02

"Buying a DSLR has been a real eye opener." You can say that again Kev. I may have to read the instructions to set up for the new lens. (arrival imminent. tension mounts!)
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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Big Kev » 05 Jul 2012, 08:04

Stanley wrote:"Buying a DSLR has been a real eye opener." You can say that again Kev. I may have to read the instructions to set up for the new lens. (arrival imminent. tension mounts!)
Going back to your image quality problems. I've been "Googling".

Quality (QUAL) Button: In front of both the ISO and WB buttons, this button controls the image resolution and quality settings. Turning the Main Command dial while pressing the button sets the compression level (RAW, TIFF, Fine, Normal, and Basic), and turning the Sub-Command dial adjusts the resolution (Large, Medium, and Small).

Are you using the settings Fine and Large?
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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Tizer » 05 Jul 2012, 09:24

Sorry to butt into your conversation but I've just added the following pic. I can't resist the colourful boats when we go to Cornwall!
Coverack harbour, Cornwall, June 2012

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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Big Kev » 05 Jul 2012, 11:18

Tizer wrote:Sorry to butt into your conversation but I've just added the following pic. I can't resist the colourful boats when we go to Cornwall!
Coverack harbour, Cornwall, June 2012

683
Boats really do make for good pictures. The light on the coast is usually very good, particularly the east coast of the UK. Take a look at pictures, by Frank Sutcliffe, of Whitby.
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Re: Photography Nuts & Bolts

Post by Stanley » 06 Jul 2012, 05:09

Thanks Kev. I was on RAW but have changed it to 'fine L'. We'll see......
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