SHED MATTERS 2

[Stanley]

I've been in the shed for just short of two hours. Yesterday took a lot out of me so I've knocked off early.



Both of my precision levels came out to play because the larger one is the less sensitive of the two and is good for getting a rough reading before I fine tune with the smaller one. It also means that I can have one for each axis.



Here we are in action and there isn't anything to show you really. I started with the back adjusting screws because they are harder to reach. I started by making quite sure the back was high and then used the front ones to actually get the crossways level. At this point I am not bothered about the slope lengthways, it isn't as important. Once I was certain I had the cross reading spot on I addressed the slope which was quite easy to correct, the tailstock was miles too low because the floor slopes. Once I had that right I rechecked the crossways level and made very small adjustments to that. Then checked the slope and again went back to the crossways level and made tiny adjustments. This is as good as I can get it and it's about an inch off the floor now. Surprising how evident this is when you stand in front and use the controls!
One thing to remember, start from the principle that your levels aren't accurate. Here's one of my bleeding obvious tips... you can check any spirit level by reversing it and seeing if the readings agree. With the sensitive one particularly use the average of the two readings and you won't be far out.
Quite a lot of my time was taken up with another small matter. Caused by my own stupidity.... again! I have been using the Moore and Wright dial calliper that I thought was damaged when I dropped it but rescued. This morning there was a bit of grit in the rack so I did the obvious and totally wrong thing, I blew the rack out air with compressed air and blew the bezel and crystal off. I found the bevel but god knows where the crystal went, I searched high and low but no joy. I'm certain that it will turn up at some point but I shall call in at the jeweller's this morning and see if he has a 12mm crystal. So top tip is don't do what I did!



Here's where I finished up.... A clean, well oiled and level lathe with a good 6" 4 jaw independent chuck ready for action. Now I have to think about what I can do next!

[Stanley]

I was in the shed at 7AM and had very little in view beyond repeating the checks I did after levelling the first time. I did those and got the same results, the lathe is turning parallel and I can't find any discrepancy. Of course it's important to remember that under real life conditions, both under power feed and manual traverse other discrepabcies are going to creep in but we have to accept that this lathe is 70 years old and will never be new again. All that matters is whether it's capable of producing reasonably accurate work and I think we were doing that before levelling!



I had one little matter in my mind, something I'd seen on Youtube that I thought was a useful tip. That's why I have a golf ball under the drill!



This was what I was after and it works like a charm. So simple and so effective, you never have enough file handles!
I'm going onto the web now to review my options.... I shan't be happy until I have some castings on the go!
A bit later..... I need to do some more thinking, I've only seen one thing that attracts me at all, the Stuart oil field pump but I still have this nagging feeling about making a clock! No rush.....

[chinatyke]

A bit later..... I need to do some more thinking, I've only seen one thing that attracts me at all, the Stuart oil field pump but I still have this nagging feeling about making a clock! No rush.....

I thought you wasn't keen on a nodding donkey type pump? They need turning slowly and I think they look so graceful and powerful.

I wonder if clock and watchmaking are dying arts now all of them seem to be driven by ten-a-penny quartz mechanisms?

[plaques]

Some years ago I started a clock movement for a long case clock. The thing that really defeated me was the getting hold of the correct spindle wire. Never did finish it.

[Stanley]

China, no particular dislike, I didn't fancy it the last time you suggested it. I don't think watchmaking is dying out but there is certainly less call for it.
P, If I made a clock it would be a replica of the very earliest bracket clocks, a very simple type.
But..... and it's a big but. I realised, after a good prodding by the Design Committee while I was having my afternoon two hours in bed, why I was so uneasy this morning. It wasn't the next project, it was the fact that my jaws were so tight in the chuck when the bolts attaching it to the back are tightened down. I have just been in there and slackened them off and the jaws are free. There's something wrong with the mounting..... I have an idea what it might be but I shall do no more now and will not speculate but tomorrow I have a purpose!

[Stanley]

Straight into the chuck and I started from basics. I re-threaded the bolts and the matching holes in the backplate. Can you remember I had one bolt that was different? It was slightly bent so I straightened it.I checked the depth of the register and that was fine. So far so good.....



I laced it up again and popped my piece of HSS in to run a check and was disappointed to find it was no different. The jaws were a bit easier in the chuck but still tighter than they are when the body is off the backplate.



I chucked a lump of scrap up to do a test cut and it was a mile out at the end even though it was dialled in OK next to the chuck. I persuaded myself that this must be in the jaws and was a separate matter. I ran the chuck on high speed to throw the oil out of it I had used when replacing the jaws and only then noticed that the body was running eccentric! So I stopped it and got the feeler gauges out and found that I could get a 10thou feeler down the joint between the body and the backplate even though the body bolts are tight. I'm blaming this on my eyes but at heart I knew that it was the register and was entirely my fault. I left the stock in the jaws and took the chuck off. Then I had a re-sharpening session on my HSS tool and took a very light cut at low speed across the face which was instructive in that it was a shade out of true, the casting must have moved. This of course is common with castings that have had a lot taken off them. I pushed the cut deep into the back of the register to undercut it and then took the lightest of skims on the periphery of the register.



I laced it all together again and immediately noticed that when I tightened the bolts down they were tight as soon as they hit the chuck. Encouraging! Remember that I had zeroed the stock in? I put the indicator on again and it was a mile out! Well, 5 thou at least so I dialled it in again and made the cut. There was far less run out at the end. I did a good cut and checked the diameters, dead accurate, no taper at all in 3".



Then I took the stock out and put the HSS steel in again. As I was doing it I noticed that the jaws were as free as they were when off the back plate. I dialled it in and then checked the run out at the end, 3" out (which now must be in the jaws alone) and it was less than 2thou, a very good result! I could get the toolpost grinder out and make it perfect but it's a 4 jaw and doesn't need to be that accurate.
It was all my own fault but we all miss things. I have it right now and I am a far happier man than I was at this time yesterday.... A very good morning!

[Stanley]

I was in the shed before 7AM. I decided last night that despite the toil it involved, I was going to grind the jaws on the 4 jaw to make the best job possible. I say toil.... the biggest problem is extracting it from the corner under Johnny's big lathe, small sheds have their drawbacks! I got this American Dumore tool post grinder in a workshop deal and it's a cracker. It's complete and has had very little use. It's 120V of course so it has to be run via my transformer.



The first thing I did was dial in a piece of tool steel to get the jaws centred. Then I opened them all the same amount and trusted my judgement. [It was OK. One jaw 5 thou shy but that was OK, I took more out of them] There was no real need to put tension on the jaws because there is no nod in the jaws, the chuck is new condition.



Then a lot of work to get to this stage..... I had to change the outside wheel for a small internal one on a spindle (I have three different lengths....) I should have changed the pulleys to get the revs up from the motor speed of 15,000rpm to 45,000rpm (I know, it's frightening!) but I left it where it was, 9,000rpm will do for this! I had to grind a small 1/2"AF spanner down so it was slim enough to fit the flats on the spindle, no sweat I have plenty and it will stay in the box with the grinder from now on. A drop of thin oil in the motor bearings and the spindle and I was getting close. I found the depth I had to go to and set the carriage stop. Notice that I've left the tool steel centred in the chuck at this point so I could mount the dressing diamond on it. You have to set the grinder parallel with the axis by eye and I got it right first time, 2 5thou cuts left it clean and ready for action. Switch the grinder motor on and let it get up to speed and warm up the bearings. Run the chuck at 350rpm and away we go.



Not long later we had this result..... I chucked the tool steel again, dialled it in and found I had improved the run out, it's down to less than half a thou over 3". I think you can see the nice clean finish on the jaws, no corrosion in there now! Then I took the 4 jaw off and put my original Pratt three jaw on.



I know that what I should have done is go to great lengths to get the right tension on the jaws, see numerous Youtube videos.... but what I did was slip a concentric ring on the jaws and put a very light outward tension on just to take up the small amount of slack in the scroll. I reckon this will be OK. I know it's sickening but here's the test piece in the chuck afterwards and it is less that 1.5 thou out. This is better than it was before and I'll bet that would have been a pass when Pratt's were testing the new chuck. It'll do for me......



It was knocking off time so I did this shot to show how busy I have been! Tomorrow I shall do the Taylor chuck which also has a bit of corrosion in the jaws. Those jaws are so tight they won't need any restraint. Another chuck which has seen very little use. So that's tomorrow!

[PanBiker]

Cable feed into the grinder motor looks "interesting".

[chinatyke]

Cable feed into the grinder motor looks "interesting".

Isn't that his airline that is loosely placed over the grinder?

[Stanley]

I knew you'd comment on that. I have the right plug for it, I had to get it sent from the US but that existing feed is quite safe as it's wired direct and embedded in epoxy resin. The tape is only there to keep oil and dirt off it. One of these days I'll get round to fitting the plug!



Here's the plug. To my mind the arrangement I have wired direct to the pins is stronger and better protected than the original. Remember it's 120V, the British Standard for safety in electric tools.
If it is really bugging you, pop round tomorrow morning or Sunday and fit the plug for me.....

[chinatyke]

Oops! I was looking at the wrong picture. Now I see what you mean.

[Stanley]

Well at least it shows you are keeping up China!

[Stanley]

It's 9AM and I am back in the kitchen for my cooking fest after doing two hours in the shed. I put the Taylor chuck on and after my experience the other day with the 4 jaw I tested the run out on the body which was about 2 thou then I took it off its back and made sure there was plenty of room at the base of the register. I did that with a scraper as the grinder is in the tool post. Then I put it back together and using my lead bumper knocked the high spot down and got it down to a thou.....



Then I put my tool steel in and did a check out here. Just over 2 thou run out, not bad but I ground the jaws to make sure they were parallel.



Then I checked again and got a slight improvement, just under 2 thou now and I reckon that's well within acceptable tolerance.



Then the biggest job of all! Tidying up. Biggest trial was putting the grinder back under Johnny's big lathe but I did it without injury and gradually got everything back in place. Last job was to put the Taylor 3 jaw away and reinstall the new 4 jaw. I don't mind admitting I was ready for a sit down so I am cooking and washing and expecting a visit from Muthomi.

[Stanley]

"Biggest trial was putting the grinder back under Johnny's big lathe but I did it without injury"
I spoke too soon, as the day progressed it became clear that I hadn't escaped injury. I shall be writing articles and reading today..... Must give my back a chance to recover!
I saw something on the Hemingway site, a tool you can build to make square holes...... I might have a crack at that!
Jess and Mo came yesterday and took the engine away. They will look after it......Mo did a video of me running it, pity I can't just pop it on here. I told Jess she needs a compressor in the sideboard so she can demonstrate the engine for her guests!

[chinatyke]

I saw something on the Hemingway site, a tool you can build to make square holes...... I might have a crack at that!

I saw a video of square holes being drilled or milled using a bit in a rotary drill, quite fascinating. The video will be available somewhere on Youtube. You can see the principle at the link below but please read the full article, it isn't as easy as making a drill bit and sticking it in a rotary drill, you need a watts chuck as well. That will keep you busy and amused!
http://www.mikesenese.com/DOIT/2011/10/ ... -triangle/

[Stanley]

The first one I ever saw was made by Hoggarth, the blacksmith at Marton. He made it to put the 1/2" holes in the cross bars of the big overthrow he built for Gledstone Hall. That was before WW2. I have decided to order the kit..... I shall do it now.
Just done it....£39. The payout form refused to let me check out without a mobile number so I entered a string of zeroes and it accepted that!

[Stanley]

I wrote an article yesterday and had an easy day, back improved a lot. I shall have another day out of the shed today because I am expecting a visitor.... Sorry lads, normal service will be resumed shortly!
(At least I haven't got a wing down like my mate John Mills....)

[Stanley]

Sorry lads but another two articles written to get the editor off my back. Talking of backs, mine is OK but another day of rest won't harm! Besides, my wobble broach kit might arrive today!



The wobble broach kit has arrived. I need to read the destructions now......

[chinatyke]

http://www.polygonsolutions.com/how-rot ... ing-works/

Now I know what you're talking about, drilling square holes. Square bashing?

[Stanley]

Hopefully China!

[Stanley]

I went in the shed, unpacked the kit and spent an hour reading the 9 pages of instructions..... I have had to come into the kitchen for a swift whisky, a necessary purchase and time to compose myself. My mother once told me in a moment of perceptive insight that my major problem was an inferiority complex. Over the years I think I have conquered much of this trait but as I often tell you, I never claim to be an expert engineer or turner, I'm just a bum fitter who can use simple machinery!
I have to tell you that reading the admirably clear instructions I am frightened to death. I might have over-reached myself here. One thing that became clear was that having a dial coaxial centring indicator will be a big advantage. I have been thinking about getting one for a while and so I have just bitten the bullet and ordered one.
This is going to be demanding but hopefully it will fall into place as I move into the project. One bummer is that everything is in metric in the instructions although the very clear drawings have Imperial equivalents. That in itself puts me off! Another thing is that I suspect collets are the order of the day and not the 4 jaw. We'll see. I may be back later but I'm not promising anything, I might be in a gibbering heap on the shed floor...... I shall now gird up my loins, take a firm grip of myself and face what might be nemesis..... Not sure if I'll be back this morning.

[Stanley]

My first hurdle was the fact that I had over-estimated the range of my Harrison collets, they only go up to 1/2" so I'm using the new 4 jaw. I am much heartened by the fact that I've spent time on checking the lathe and the chuck and I am confident in the accuracy of everything on the lathe. I'm getting better at dialling a workpiece in but I'm still learning. I got it to less that 1 thou and decided that was good enough!



Here's where I was at closing time. I'm ready to put the thread on, 52tpi! This is the imperial equivalent of the metric size that the description demands. But that's for tomorrow.



This is a codicil just to show you I'm being tidy. I have the kit in a small Tupperware box to keep it clean and together. I am trying to get into an 'excellence' frame of mind because I'm going to need it! Mind you I feel a bit better now I've started!

[Stanley]

I got in the shed just after 8AM and had an hour and a half. If you think I haven't got much done, it's been quite busy actually! The first thing I did was to get my tackle together and I got out this good India stone and honed my screw-cutting bit and the everyday HSS cutting tool I am using. I didn't skimp this, I did a good job and checked my centre heights as well. The job this morning is to thread the end of the locking ring 52tpi and .016 deep. First I used my parting tool to make a 20thou undercut at the end of the thread. Then set the screw cutting tool up, blue the workpiece and do a scratch pass before checking it is correct with a thread gauge. Nowt to it until I realised that my everyday thread gauge went from 48tpi to 60tpi, no 52tpi blade! So I got all my gauges out and checked them all, it took me quite a long time to accept the fact I hadn't got one. I even checked to see if I had one squirrelled away in the front room with the 1927 lathe but no joy.



I reflected that Mrs Harrison's Norton box was to be trusted and anyway I would be using the same setting when I make the internal thread. I got on with it and did the thread, it's the finest I have ever done and I finished it off by rubbing the crest down with a diamond hone and using the same for putting a light chamfer on the end. That was it for this morning except for one more task....



Remember me blowing the crystal out of my dial calliper? I asked Fred Huppach's son to have a root for a 37mm glass and I called in this morning, I have three that might do now. Nothing paid, I can take the two back I don't need but if the price is right I'll keep all three.

[Stanley]

A nice start to the day......



Then another good move. One of the crystals (plastic actually) fitted my older dial calliper perfectly, the one nearest the camera. In fact it's a better fit than the original, it clicked into place in the bezel! The newer one has gone back in the treasure chest, the rescued one goes on the bench. Now I can proceed with the wobble broach!

[Stanley]

It must be calliper morning! Having to measure in mm means that my digital calliper is very useful (especially since I breathed on it and it's reasonably accurate again). It threw up an error reading and that meant the battery had died. Luckily (not really.... just good forward thinking) I had a spare. The old one goes back in the packet and when I go back to Fred's with the crystals I shall get another one for stock.



I have to bore out the centre very accurately and it's a tiny hole so I had to sort out a small boring bar and go carefully.



Then more careful measuring and relieve the face so it seats accurately on the bearing when I assemble it. Chamfer the edges and polish the face with a fine diamond hone.



Here's where I finished up. I need to bore two holes in the recess to accept the peg spanner I will have to make for tightening it up on assembly. I shall do this under the mill and need enough to get hold of. Once I have done that I can part it off, the parted face is to the outside and doesn't get finished until after the tool is assembled.
Not a lot done I can hear you say. But remember my handicaps, old age, bad eyesight and a tendency to make stupid mistakes so everything is checked three times! What counts is the fact that as far as I know, everything so far is correct and accurate! So there......